Creality Ender 3 V3 KE – a worthy successor, at a budget-friendly level
I’ve been slowly peeling away my previous V2 Neo series 3D printer from the Creality production line for a year now and I’m very satisfied with it. BUT, it could be better. Better construction, faster printing speed, better tool cooling, more modern software and online or at least local network monitoring and printing.
These are exactly the things we get with the new Creality Ender 3 V3 KE variant. Of course, there are about 100 alternatives here, but the KE has almost everything that can currently be squeezed into a budget printer.

We received a coupon code from Geekbuying for the purchase (I’ll post a new one here as soon as we get one) and a link to the product:
https://www.geekbuying.com/item/Creality-Ender-3-V3-KE-3D-Printer-522292.html
Before we get started, will I be replacing my older printer? Yes and no. My old printer can do everything I want, just 10x slower. So the two together will be my winning combination…
What’s in the box?
As usual from Creality, our printer arrives in a semi-finished state. This allows for easy transportation and all components can be securely attached.

After opening the box, you can see the aforementioned packaging, which, in detail, shows how the entire printer can be removed for assembly onto a larger table. Be careful with the stand part, if possible, but at the same time, it’s not a big deal, you don’t need to overthink it.

There is also a package of instructions and stickers for the printer, screws and tools needed for assembly, some test PLA rolls, our roll holder, power cable and of course our display.

Assembly
It doesn’t cause much trouble even for beginners, you just need to follow a few tips and the guide.

Place the base in a convenient place on the table, then grab the tower part and fit it in its clearly visible place. On one side of this is a 5-10cm cable that must be threaded through the opening.

Screw in the marked screws on the second side, but do not tighten them. Turn the printer on its side and secure the tower properly with the additional screws. This is much easier from the side and will not damage the printer. After securing both sides, connect our small cable with its corresponding lower pair. We can turn it back and tighten the previous two screws properly.

Next, you need to screw the display bracket into place. Connect the cable located here to the bottom of your display and then snap it into place.

Follow the instructions and attach the additional cables to the appropriate connection points, as well as the small plastic clamp above the cable coming to the head.

The spool holder can also be replaced last. This is not the best solution, but there is a solution. First, screw it onto the top of the printer along with the filament sensor.

The power cable can be replaced and the first start can come. Here you have to follow the instructions (unfortunately, there is no Hungarian language), accept the legal text, connect to our WiFi network and let the first calibration process run through. You can skip the mobile app prompt, we will have time to scan the QR code later.
The display
This was previously available as an optional upgrade, but now the touchscreen and the new software behind it (based on Klipper) are standard equipment.

It’s great for resolution, and has enough sensitivity for what you need (after all, it won’t be running games). It’s nice that we can manage more things in one place and don’t have to run around for a pendrive for everything.
The first print
For this, we can use the manufacturer’s own Creality Print application for the first time. It is free to download and is initially perfect. On first launch, it will ask you to define the printer, so select it accordingly.

Since we are on the local network, when printing, it transfers the file and the party can start.

Of course, in the classic sense, it is also possible to use the USB ports on the side of the display and use a pendrive to print files.
I wanted to print a pen holder made of spinal vertebrae as a test. This is quite a tough test and time is also decisive. The previous V2 Neo printed it in almost 17 hours, while the new generation was ready in 0.2 quality instead of 0.4, i.e. with twice as fine layers, in just 9 hours. With 25% worse quality, it only takes 6 hours and 28 minutes, but a regular person will not be able to notice this without a second thought.
Of course, a test cube is the best first test, as it’s better to know if there are any problems before wasting half a kilo of raw material. Here’s a link to a great calibration cube:

https://www.printables.com/model/607037-em-calibration-cube-30x30x30/files
First benchy
A piece of advice: don’t ask for calibration at the beginning of every print or you’ll get old.
It cannot be emphasized that it is even more important for these machines to lie on a stable concrete base, because it can shake the table underneath. I intentionally tested it on an adjustable table, it has support, but it is not like a 40*40cm garden paving slab on a base (if you had to weigh the table down, this is a cheap method…)

The USB drive I received contained a printable benchy that I completed in just 16 minutes. With basic settings and the test PLA material I received, I achieved a perfectly good result. It only took one thread and the quality was absolutely fine:

Accessories
Roll holder: There are many options for this, if the roll holder placed above noticeably degrades the print quality, then it is worth looking around in the Yeggi search engine for a printable solution to place it to a different location.
AI camera: It is possible to buy a Creality camera either separately or in a set. I ordered this too and tried to see if the “AI” recognition and timelapse functionality worked. This was the only solution for my previous printer that allowed me to connect to a network with quotes without any major intervention. (I tried with another USB webcam, it didn’t like it in the default position, it can be solved, but it would be an advanced tutorial and not worth the money)


AI recognition: works, even in the case of spaghetti and broken filament, it stopped printing after a 30-second check, sometimes it needed 2-3 extra check periods. But it’s still better than 10 hours of spaghetti!

My opinion and what you should know
Knowing its predecessors, if you’re looking for a new 3D printer, the KE is definitely worth the price. If you’re looking to upgrade, even then, but only from a very old model if you’re a hobby user.
Higher speeds, better build quality, an updated user interface, and network connectivity help make printing easier for hobbyists and professionals alike. These were constant issues with previous entry-level printers and came at a significant extra cost.